Banned Book! Daphne Gottlieb reading The Anarchist Cookbook

Read about the banned books project here.

Daphne Gottlieb is a queer San Francisco poet and performer, whose work has appeared in a number of anthologies including Don’t Forget to Write, Red Light: Sains, Sinners and Sluts, With a Rouge Tongue: Femmes Write Porn, and Short Fuse: A Contemporary Anthology of Global Performance Poetry. She is the “cover girl” of San Francisco Noir (Akashic Books). Gottlieb has appeared in the Slam America bus tour, Sister Spit tour, and many other national poetry performance tours. She was the poetry editor of the LGBT literary magazine, Lodestar Quarterly.

The Anarchist Cookbook is William Powell’s protesting response to the horrors of the Vietnam War. In the book, many recipes of highly dangerous materials were listed. A book attempting to make the public understand how misplaced and unnecessary violence is in the world by using dark irony, became a banned book for its “terrorist” nature. William Powell , born in the early ’50s, is the author of The Anarchist Cookbook. After the publishing, Powell turned to Anglican Christianity and repudiated any association with the quasi-“recipe” book. On his website dedicated to the removal of The Anarchist Cookbook from circulation he wrote, “The book, in many respects, was a misguided product of my adolescent anger at the prospect of being drafted and sent to Vietnam to fight in a war that I did not believe in.” He has now turned to co-directing Education Across Frontiers with his wife. Education Across Frontiers is an organization dedicated to the aid and development of school teachers and administration all across the world.

Contents

A prefatory note on Anarchism today 9

Foreword 27

Introduction 29

Chapter One: DRUGS 31

Pot 31
Peyote 31
Psilocybin 50
DMT 53
Bananas 55
Amphetamines 55
Amyi Nitrate 56
Cough Syrup 56
Glue 58
Nalline 58
Cocaine 58
Heroin 58
Nutmeg 58
Paregoric 58
Peanuts 58
Hydrangea leaves 59

Chapter Two: ELECTRONICS, SABOTAGE,
AND SURVEILLANCE 61

Electronic bugging devices 61
Microphones 63
Bumper beepers 65
Voice-activated tape recorders 68
Electronic bug detection 68
Electronic jamming 69
Electronic scramblers 70
Mail order and retail electronics outlets 70
Broadcasting free radio 70
Telephone and communications sabotage 72
Other forms of sabotage 74

Chapter Three: NATURAL, NONLETHAL,

AND LETHAL WEAPONS 77

Natural weapons 78
Hand-to-hand combat 79
Application of hand weapons 81
Hand weapons 81
Knives 81
Impromptu weapons 83
Brass knuckles and clubs 85
Cattle prod 85
Garrote 85
Guerrilla Training 87
Pistols and revolvers 89
Holsters 92
Rifles 93
Semi-automatic and automatic weapons 95
Shotguns 98
Converting a shotgun into a grenade launcher 98
Silencers 98
How to build a silencer for a pistol 100
How to build a silencer for a submachine gun 103
Bows and arrows 103
Chemicals and gases 104
How to make tear gas in your basement 104
Defense and medical treatment for gases 105

Chapter Four: EXPLOSIVES AND BOOBY TRAPS 111

How to make nitroglycerin 113
How to make mercury fulminate 114
How to make blasting gelatin 114
Formulas for the straight dynamite series 114
How to make chloride of azode 115
Formulas for ammonium nitrate compounds 116
Formulas for gelatin dynamites 117
How to make TNT 118
How to make tetiyl 118
How to make picric acid 119
Formulas for black powder 120
How to make smokeless powder 121
How to make nitrogen tri-iodide 121
Formulas for different-colored smoke screens 121
Household substitutes 122
Safety precautions 122
Basic formulas for demolitions use 125
Some important principles 125
Tamping 128
Placement of charges 129
Bridge destruction 130
Detonators 132
Release of pressure detonators 135
Time delay devices 135
Road trap 148
Walk trap 148
Bangalore torpedo 148
Molotov Cocktail 148
Homemade hand grenade 148
How to make an anti-personnel grenade 149
Book trap 149
Door-handle traps 149
Loose floorboard trap 149
Gate trap 149
Chimney trap 149
Lamp trap 150
Car trap 150
Pipe trap150
Pen trap150
Whistle trap and other handy devices 150
Cacodyal 150

Postscript 153

Bibliography 159

Explosives and Booby Traps

How to make an anti-personnel grenade

Even more effective than the grenade described above is an anti-personnel grenade. This is constructed by taking a piece of pipe and closing it at one end, either by soldering or by screwing a cap on it. The pipe is packed tightly with dynamite, and sealed at the other end, leaving a small hole for the detonator, which is made in the following manner. A piece of one-eighth-inch tubing is fastened to the end of a piece of fuse, which in turn is attached to a detonating cap. On the other end of the fuse, a bit of cotton, saturated with chlorate of potassium and common sugar, is placed, followed by another piece of cotton and a little vial of sulfuric acid. (This vial must be hermetically sealed, to prevent leakage.) Finally, a piece of wood or iron, which can be easily moved, is packed in the remaining empty space. The piece of wood is placed there, so that when the pipe is
moved the piece of iron or wood will fall against the vial of sulfuric acid and break it. Once the sulfuric acid contacts the potassium chlorate, the chemical reaction will cause a
very hot flame, which will ignite the fuse and cause the explosion. If this type of device is placed in a roadway, or directly in the path of the enemy army, there is a good chance it will be set off—either by a kick or by curiosity.

Book trap

Figure 105 depicts a book trap. To construct this, you will need a large book, perhaps a thousand pages. The book should be hollowed out, leaving the edges intact. In this hollow place, put a dry cell battery and your explosive, and connect the wires. Fix two metal contact points to the edges of the book, and separate them with a wooden wedge, which is attached to the rear wall of the bookcase. This must be accomplished in such a manner that, when the book is removed from the shelf, the metal contact points will touch and complete the electrical circuit, thus causing the detonation of the explosive charge.

Door-handle traps

Two basic methods of booby-trapping door handles are illustrated in Figure 106. The first employs a short test tube, a cork, two needles, three wires, one electric blasting cap, one metal ball bearing, and one stick of dynamite. The two needles are pushed through the cork to an equal length, and the ball bearing is placed within the tube. The test tube is corked, and taped to the inside of a door handle. The wires are then connected from the eyes of the two needles to the battery, with one wire going via the blasting cap. Next, the battery and stick of dynamite are taped to the back of the door. When the handle is turned, the ball bearing will roll and touch both points of the needles, thus completing the electrical circuit and exploding the dynamite.

The second door-handle trap is much the same, except it uses a mercury thermostat switch, rather than a ball bearing.

Loose floorboard trap

The loose floorboard trap (Figure 107) utilizes the same principles as the Book Trap, in that it relies on two metal contact points touching to complete the electrical circuit. Beneath the loose floorboard are two strips of pliable metal or bamboo, each with a metal contact point, which will touch when pressure is brought down on the loose floorboard.

Gate trap

Illustrated in Figure 108 is the utilization of a regulation military grenade in a booby trap. This is an extremely simple, effective, and relatively safe booby trap. To cock the booby trap, pull the pin on a regular tension release grenade, and place beneath a swinging gate, or anywhere that will supply the pressure necessary. When the gate is moved (either opened or closed), the pressure will be released and the grenade detonated.

Chimney trap

An extremely simple but effective booby trap can be placed in a fireplace in a matter of seconds. Take three or four sticks of dynamite and tape them together. Attach a nonelectrical blasting cap, with a three- or four-foot fuse. Now tape the dynamite about five feet up on the inside of the chimney, leaving the fuse hanging loose downward. The end of the fuse should be about a foot or so up the chimney so that it is out of sight. When a fire is lit, the heat generated will ignite the fuse, and it will explode the charge, further up the chimney. This works extremely well, since most of the tamping is supplied by the very structure of the chimney.

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